Driving in India is totally alien, to the way we drive in Europe and the Western World. There is almost a total lack of the use of mirrors. Vehicles of all kinds, shapes and sizes will just come out of side roads in front of you without any care about how fast you are going - it is your job to miss them as they got in ahead of you. There appears to be absolutely no rules, we would suggest that you do not drive in India as it is not an option. Hiring a vehicle with a driver is not too expensive, and is probably the best way to travel.
Hiring a vehicle - We recommend that you go through all the costs up front with the hire company. We hired a driver plus a vehicle with working seat belts front and back for 7 days, doing some 700Km, including the fuel costs, driver etc - it costs use some £250 equivalent. It comfortably transported four of us around from Delhi to Agra sites. In addition to this we paid the driver 200 Rupees each night for his night away from home allowance and made sure he had some food if we stopped in the middle of the day (we gave him another 100 Rupees for his lunch). Anything the driver asks you to pay, insist on him giving you a receipt for it - these may include Road tolls, parking fees (all will have receipts issued). Drivers like to claim hire amounts from unsuspecting western tourists so always insist he provides the receipt otherwise do not pay him, as he is taking advantage!
Rickshaws, motorised or pedal - These are good fun and a perfectly satisfactory way to travel. Before you get in agree a rate to your destination. DO NOT get in until you have agreed a rate, so you know what you are paying up front.